Replacing Ball Joints
Stage 1
To this point:
1. I have removed the flex line.
2. Taken off big nut.
3. Taken off nuts on upper/lower ball joint and outer tie rod.
4. Removed knuckle assembly from output shaft spline.
NOTE****
1. Car supported by lower control arms only.
2. Extra set of jacks and floor jack in place (just in case).
3. Put end of small paint brush/dowel/stopper/plug in the brake line so all the fluid does not drain out of master cylinder (you should only have to bleed this line upon reinstallation).
4. Upper control arm springs up and out of the way.
5. Access to ball joints are greatly enhanced for change out.
Stage 2
This is only if you need to pull out the half shaft to replace a boot.
1. Loosen all 7/16" star bolts from output connector shaft.
2. Gently slide out half shaft as to not rip/overflex inside boot.
NOTE*****
1. Knuckle assembly on floor (with brakes pre-removed in this case).
2. Wheel bearing still in knuckle (change bearing out now if you are gonna do it!)
Stage 3
After new ball joints/boots/bearing/seals are installed:
1. Position halfshaft gently back into housing.
2. Rest shaft on 2x4 as shown and tighten the 7/16 bolts (the shaft is now in perfect alignment relative to knuckle).
3. Put knuckle on lower ball joint first and snug up.
4. Get a large clamp (sorry, ran out of film) to pull upper control arm onto the ball joint stud.
5. Install flex line on wheel cylinder.
6. install flex line clip on upper ball joint stud.
7. Route flex line and clip to frame.
8. Snug other flex line end to the brake line.
9. Tighten ball joint studs and insert cotter pins (tie rod end too).
10. Put on the big nut (cotter pin too).
11. Bleed line.
NOTE*****
1. Use lock ease or similar product in the ball joint tapers and on spline.
2. Be VERY careful through entire process NOT to rip boots or ball joint seals.
3 Pre-align the ball joint cotter pin holes for access.
Submitted by: Greg Kalkhoff