Fuel line access,Is there is an inline fuel filter on the 66

[DanOldsMan]

I have a fuel line leaking like a sib. it appears to be on the right side body/frame but I cant spot the fuel line. How is the fuel line accessed to be repaired or replaced. Also, Is there is an inline fuel filter on the 66 Olds Toronado. Newbie looking for answers for my newest addition to my collection. Thanks in advance. PIC's are always helpful

[69W34]

where exactly is it leaking ... first; the steel fuel line and return if equipped run along a recessed area outboard of the passengers side frame rail, held in place by clips. At the front and back of the frame rail it switches to hoses ( and typically the failure point), which then dive into the frame reappearing at the front connecting to the fuel pump and at the back connecting to the tank, the hoses are continues runs from the frame rail connection to the pump or tank.
The rear can be a real PETA because of the tight quarters to the front not so much though still no fun. I have loosened the rear body bolts the raised the body just enough to provide better access, its is however rought with other issues to consider. Twisting off the body bolts being one.
Dropping the fuel tank is a must to adequately address changing the hose(s) its not for the faint of heart, also make sure that a drag line is pulled in when removing the hoses other wise its (go fish)!
Lastly if steel line is rusted through Inline Tube would the next stop.

[DanOldsMan]

where exactly is it leaking ... first; the steel fuel line and return if equipped run along a recessed area outboard of the passengers side frame rail, held in place by clips. At the front and back of the frame rail it switches to hoses ( and typically the failure point), which then dive into the frame reappearing at the front connecting to the fuel pump and at the back connecting to the tank, the hoses are continues runs from the frame rail connection to the pump or tank. .

Bill, Its leaking in front of the right rear wheel along the frame rail, although it is a UniBody car so I use the term Frame rail loosely. I am going to assume the rubber hose is the culprit, I have 10ft of 3/8" fuel line to replace the old rubber fuel hose. Problem is, I cant actually see the fuel line.

The rear can be a real PETA because of the tight quarters to the front not so much though still no fun. I have loosened the rear body bolts the raised the body just enough to provide better access, its is however rought with other issues to consider. Twisting off the body bolts being one..

I am not opposed to doing one of either of the two options you describe, I don't want to do unnecessary work on the same note. I am additionally open to possible outside the box thinking. What I mean is, can a section of metal, either inside the trunk or on the underside of the body, be cut out and then rewelded when done replacing?
Dropping the fuel tank is a must to adequately address changing the hose(s) its not for the faint of heart,

also make sure that a drag line is pulled in when removing the hoses other wise its (go fish)! .

Another thought, is it possible to just attach a drag line somewhere and fish the new hose into position?

Lastly if steel line is rusted through Inline Tube would the next stop.

The car has been stored in a very dry desert climate since 1990 so I am going to assume the rubber hose is the culprit. What I am gathering, this is not going to be a quick nor easy task, working blindly with the body and/or the tank more or less hindering the hose replacement. Curious what the factory service manual says, probably one of the two listed options you've given me, id assume.
Thanks for your post, it gives me some ideas for tackling this job.

[69W34]

The 'E' body toros are not a uni-body per-say, they do have a structural frame as with most full size car B/C even A bodies, however the frame ends at the forward rear spring perch, just ahead of the rear axle. As it is the body drapes down a long side the frame so you 'll have to get down on your back to see all of this and you really can't miss it.
As it is a front drive the forces are far reduced apposed to a rear drive car. Hence the is no need for full length frame. Not to mention the body structure of the 66-70 tail ends are very stout.
As far as cutting an access to the tank from inside trunk (if that's what your asking?) ah not so much as the tank is right there against the trunk floor.
None of this is as bad as it sounds work wise though it depends on ones skill set, with a fair amount of tools, jack stand and place to work it will be a time consuming not to mention dirty, with help from friends its not to bad. I'll see what i have in the way of pictures.

[DanOldsMan]

THANKS BILL,
So your right I have an E body and it is a full frame vehicle. Found a Chilton and two factory Service Reference manuals. So Its tank drop time. Not my first rodeo, but PIC's are always helpful.

[69W34]

_065.JPG (391.67 KiB) Viewed 10806 times

here is picture of the steel line running along the frame diving off in the sub frame headed to the tank .........

followed by a shot of the where they come out of the sub frame .... sorry for the LARGE pictures

[DanOldsMan]

Awsome Bill, Thank you! So is the last pic showing the fuel tank attachment bolt or body bolt? I see now how the fuel tank needs to be dropped, but is it going to be necessary to raise the body?

[69W34]

That bolt that is hanging down is the tank strap bolt. You can miss the body bolts thay are just inside the of the forward spring perch recessed washer with bolt & rubber isolator, don't worry about raising up the body, but just do enough to provide access the clamps if you go to much you risk tweaking something it can stand and inch or so just use good judgment. One more thing should the not want brake loose don't fight it or risk twisting them off ... sorry just can't say enough about exercising caution.