Narrative
QUESTION:
The real question I have concerns removing the lower ball-joint. The ball joint stud points downward, and goes down into the spindle. Removing it requires lifting it _out_ of the spindle, but *right* above the ball-joint is the outer CV boot. Hmmm, once the upper ball-joint is removed, does the spindle/hub pivot outward, such that the CV joint can be lifted out of the way, and the lower A-arm/Ball-joint can be lifted up (or the spindle/hub lowered)? Do you actually have to remove the CV joint from the spindle/hub to get that ball-joint out?
ANSWER:
That is why I would take the entire knuckel off the car before extracting the ball joints off the control arms.
Down and dirty:
(support car by LOWER control arms only, keep extra stands under saddle and keep floor jack in position too) safety safety safety!!!
1. Remove flex line from wheel cylinder (ok you'll have to bleed them later but its worth it)
2. Remove the "Big Nut" from axle shaft
3. Remove outer tie rod end from knuckle
4. Use whatever method you prefer to loosen the upper and lower ball joints out of the knuckle taper.
5. After the ball joints are loose in the taper, slide the upper one off the knuckle first. The upper control arm will sort of spring up and out of the way.
7. Place a 12-18" 2x4 under the half shaft. It will lay on top of the lower control arm.
8. Pull the knuckle up and towards you as the shaft slides out of the spline. Pull knuckle out of lower ball joint taper simultaneously. The shaft should rest on the 2x4.
Now you have the entire knuckle assembley with brakes attached in your hand.
The ball joints are now easily accessible to remove from the control arms and change out.
NOTE:
When reinstalling the new ball joints. Be careful to note the position of the cotter pin holes with reference to access. Luckily, when I went to put the cotter pins in (the last thing to do) they were lined up. But, if they are in an awkward position, you cannot spin the ball joint anymore, and it looks like it could be a bear to get them in.
Also, I put plenty of never sieze in the knuckle tapers. The next time they have to be removed, they should pop off easier.
I also have a few more tricks when putting the knuckle back on. It will really help if you have a large Jorgenson type clamp to squeeze the upper control arm onto and held to the knuckle. This way you can get the flex line clip on easier and start the nut on the bolt without having the wife get her hands all greasy!!!
QUESTION:
And what is the best way to suspend the spindle/hub assembly once it is removed? Wire? Patient wife?
ANSWER:
Only have to do this if you do not remove the knuckle. The manual shows a hook deal that you insert into a frame hole to hold the knuckle as not to tear the flex line.
Submitted by: Greg Kalkhoff
11/24/96
Except for the left lower ball-joint... I used the angle adapter from the old joint on the new one, and screwed the grease nipple into that; the only trouble is that it is too close to the control arm, and I can't get a grease gun on it. Does anyone know of a grease-nipple extension? or of a "slimline" grease-gun nozzle? I want to get this thing going!
Here are a couple things I learned in this experience:
* The shop manual procedures are not gospel; there are plenty of shortcuts. For instance, to get at the ball joints, you only need to remove three nuts. Granted, they all hold a tapered fitting, so removing *that* becomes the problem. If you are replacing the tie-rods, you can just bang those out with a small sledge (5lb- my most useful tool); put the castle nuts on backwards to give you a bigger target. Use a tie-rod puller if you want to save it; a pickle fork will destroy the seal, and you can only get those when you buy a new tie rod.
* The upper ball joint taper will come loose with some knocking on the side of the spot it enters the knuckle. Pounding on the lower ball joint is fruitless; get a hold of a KD-Tools pitman-arm puller; it is a perfect fit, and will pop that baby out with no damage.
* When at all possible, SAVE UNDAMAGED GREASE SEALS! We should start a common fund of these things, to avoid unnecessary purchases of tie rods (right, Sparks?)
* You can remove the knuckle from a drum-brake car without removing the brake hose (or even removing the drum; just put a couple of lug nuts on backwards after the wheel is removed to keep the drum on there). Hang it with a HEAVY piece of wire (like a strong coathanger), AND to support the drum from the bottom with a length of 2x4 or 2x6 wood.
* Replace both grease seals! Though the wheel bearing is sealed, that only means that you can't re-grease it. Dirt can still get in, and this will ruin probably the most expensive single piece on the car (what do they run, $220 for the bearing alone, _each_? I don't want to know what the labor on a job like that would run :( . Tip: If you are ordering something from Fusick's at this time, get a couple of grease seals from them; they seem to have a better price than my local parts store.
* The torque values on the ball-joint nuts are very low; avoid snapping off nuts, unless you like that sort of thing...
* An Idler arm can be removed without much damage by use of a tie-rod sized pickle-fork. There is no grease seal, but rather a thin rubber washer that can easily be duplicated.