'66 Low Power and Crazy Timing

[hullinger]

Guy,

I'm a brand new owner of a '66 and just recently became a member. This is my very first Toronado and I'm pretty excited about the car. It got delivered on Thursday and I've spent the past two days going through everything. I took my first drive yesterday and was generally pleased. I was however anticipating quite a bit more power than what I have. Plus, the idle isn't quite as smooth as it should be.

So today I checked the ignition system and found a Petronix under the dizzy cap. I hooked up a dwell meter and it was reading so low it was off the gauge. I put my timing light on her and noticed the timing was crazy advanced. By crazy, I would say four or five inches from the timing mark. I set the timing properly, took a drive and barely had enough power to accelerate to 50 MPH. Nearly had the throttle floored the whole time. The engine was smooth the whole time but just no power. I readjusted the timing to where it was originally and got back some power but still no where near what 385 horsepower should feel like.

So, I guess I have a bunch of questions regarding the cause of the low power. Does the Pertronix trigger in the dizzy have adjustments and could that be the reason I have hardly any dwell reading? Does the Petronix compensate and continually adjust so much that I can swing the timing between extremes? Would a missing kick-down linkage cause any issues or loss of power? Does anyone have any thoughts about this whole thing?

Chris
Wilmington, DE

[hullinger]

After tons of research and more time with and reading the vacuum gauge, I'm beginning to think I have late valve timing. My Chilton's manual says I need to remove the engine to replace the timing chain. Can that be true? I can't fathom removing the engine on an educated hunch that my low power, poor idle and crazy timing is due to valve timing.

Chris

[Twilight Fenrir]

After tons of research and more time with and reading the vacuum gauge, I'm beginning to think I have late valve timing. My Chilton's manual says I need to remove the engine to replace the timing chain. Can that be true? I can't fathom removing the engine on an educated hunch that my low power, poor idle and crazy timing is due to valve timing.

Chris

I've heard tell of loosing a tooth from a timung gear can cause such a problem the chain can jump and get way off. But, that's a bit over my knowledge base.

I understand however, that it is possible to replace the timing hardware without removing the engine, but you have to remove the radiator, and basically everything else on the front of the engine... I'd wait for more knowledgable people to chime in, but this is my understanding of it....

Might want to double check that your plug wires are on in the right order, to the right cylinder too...

I've got a similar lack of power, but my timing is dead on... Who knows...

[hullinger]

Thanks for your input. Have you tried a vacuum gauge to see how much vacuum you have and to see how the gauge reacts? I'm only learning how to read the gauge but it's tells quite a bit about the state of the engine.

Chris

[Schurkey]

Bring damper/timing notch to TDC by turning with ratchet/socket in the NORMAL DIRECTION OF ROTATION.

Remove distributor cap. Have a helper WATCH THE DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR FOR MOVEMENT while you turn crankshaft/damper BACKWARDS, slowly, smoothly, and carefully.

When helper sees rotor begin to move, he yells at you to stop turning crankshaft.

Read number of degrees of timing chain free play on timing notch of damper vs. timing indicator on engine front cover. 0--4 degrees = acceptable. 5+ degrees = worn, should be replaced. 10 degrees = replace it NOW.





I've seen plenty of "Poor power" problems solved by inspecting the secondary throttles on the Quadrajet. The secondary throttle won't open because of ancient gaskets pushing out-of-position and blocking the edge of the secondary throttle. Open the secondary air valve, watch throttle plates from above. Move throttle lever to WFO. SEE that the throttle plates actually open.

What is your fuel pressure with the car accelerating?

What is your cranking compression?

"Dwell" with an electronic ignition is built-in, non-adjustable. "I" would buy a spark-tester. If the spark is verified to be adequate, the module and coil are almost certainly OK. If the spark is not adequate, either the module or the coil could be defective. Personally, I wouldn't walk across the street to get a free Pertronix or Unilite module; but not everyone feels that way. What the hell, you already own the Pertronix.

My preference for NON-HEI spark tester (but there are other styles and brands that can work just fine.)
http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-2757-Cal ... ZN9JL1DRQ9



You will want to verify that your damper and therefore the timing indicator groove have not shifted. Common problem with old dampers. Bring #1 piston to true TDC, verify that damper timing groove aligns with "0" on the indicator.

"Lazy" acceleration can also be due to dragging brakes, plugged exhaust including stuck-shut heat riser valve; or the switch-pitch torque converter stuck in low-stall mode.