Allignment points...

[Twilight Fenrir]

Alright, got my bearings out with a combination of an air-chisel, cuttoff wheel, and a big hammer/screwdriver. Huzzah!

Still at the same place with the torsion bars though.

[Twilight Fenrir]

Well, another forum pointed out that in all likelyhood my body to frame bushings are probably shot, which is why I have no room. Makes sense to me.

Was also told, that since i've got my knuckle out already, I should be able to just let my lower control arm down, which will effectively unload it for removal. Huzzah!

[xgecko]

I am not so sure that just letting your lower control arm down is going to allow you to remove it without unloading the torsion bar. Of course, you can always use the adjuster screw which might release it sufficiently to get you where you need to go but I am not sure it will take enough of the force off.

Why again are you removing it anyway? Unless you plan to replace the bushings - something I highly recommend given the age of these cars - you do not need to remove the lower control arm.

As for the upper bushings, I recommend replacing them too. I used urethane bushings from Shurkey here on the forum and I have to say it is tighter than it was brand new. In fact, it might be a bit too tight for some as my slightest steering input results in an immediate output. Great for precision driving, not so much for casual driving. You may want standard rubber bushings which probably are not quite as twitchy.

[Twilight Fenrir]

Yeah, i'm rebuilding my suspension while i'm at it. I bought the Kanter kit.

Guy said he'd done it that way before... Worst case scenario is I gotta do it the regular way if it doesn't work.....