Hey Toronauts,
Does anyone have a trick to remove torsion bars from rear crossmember?
Torsion bars are completely unloaded and all control arms are off vehicle. According to Service manual do not knick or mark torsion bars. These bars seem to be kinda stuck in the torsion bra key. I would like to remove them so I can clean and paint them as well as repack them with grease.
Aybody?
Also, what colour was the final drive on a 68?
Again Anybody?
Cheers, Jim.
Torsion bar question
- Chazzer
- Posts: 120
- Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:17 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 146
- Years Owned: 1968 Ocean Mist Metallic, purchased September 2005. Ripped into a kazillion pieces in 2010 for a full blown resto. A few more kinks to work out and she’s almost done.
- Location: Ontario, Canada
Torsion bar question
Cheers, Jim
TOA# 146
TOA# 146
Re: Torsion bar question
Jim, the bars are inserted into the 'tensioner' piece in the same manner as the lower control arm they just slip in.
Do the following
Stand the bars /cross up and support upright remove the rubber boots spray (saturate) the
area at what would now be the bottom of the bar at the entry point with WD40 or liquid wrench.
Take two short 2x4's 16-18" long and 'C' clamp them together face to face, drill a 3/4" hole between them so that when you un-clamp them you'll have two half's of a circle (like a half pipe) in each face.
Lay the bars down and re-clamp the half's as tight as you can get them at each side of the bar about 2/3 thirds of the length away from the cross member (this provides swing room) the 2x4's will 'bite' the bar. Then use a 4# mall (hammer) or light 6-8# sledge 'lightly smack' (yeah I know sounds counter productive) the 2x4"s close to bar in the direction away from the cross member this may take a couple of hits and the 2x4's might move down the bar, if the soaking has don its job the bars should pop out. You may find the need to secure the cross member from moving but they will come out.
Do the following
Stand the bars /cross up and support upright remove the rubber boots spray (saturate) the
area at what would now be the bottom of the bar at the entry point with WD40 or liquid wrench.
Take two short 2x4's 16-18" long and 'C' clamp them together face to face, drill a 3/4" hole between them so that when you un-clamp them you'll have two half's of a circle (like a half pipe) in each face.
Lay the bars down and re-clamp the half's as tight as you can get them at each side of the bar about 2/3 thirds of the length away from the cross member (this provides swing room) the 2x4's will 'bite' the bar. Then use a 4# mall (hammer) or light 6-8# sledge 'lightly smack' (yeah I know sounds counter productive) the 2x4"s close to bar in the direction away from the cross member this may take a couple of hits and the 2x4's might move down the bar, if the soaking has don its job the bars should pop out. You may find the need to secure the cross member from moving but they will come out.
Bill
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- Chazzer
- Posts: 120
- Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:17 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 146
- Years Owned: 1968 Ocean Mist Metallic, purchased September 2005. Ripped into a kazillion pieces in 2010 for a full blown resto. A few more kinks to work out and she’s almost done.
- Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Torsion bar question
Thanks Bill,
Sounds like a good trick. I will give it a go.
Bill, what colour was the final drive painted new?
Jim
Sounds like a good trick. I will give it a go.
Bill, what colour was the final drive painted new?
Jim
Cheers, Jim
TOA# 146
TOA# 146
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- Years Owned: 1982 Chevrolet El Camino
1986 Pontiac Fiero
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado
Re: Torsion bar question
I'm going to be doing much the same thing over the next few weeks/months (putting on disc brakes and redoing my suspension while I'm at it)
I plan to POR-15 my control arms, knuckles and all that... I had considered painting the torsion bars, but I thought either A) The prep-work on the bars would ruin them, as sanding or sandblasting them clean would scratch them. and B) that if I did, it would flake off anyway with the twisting of the metal.
Are these not concerns? I'd love to paint my bars while I've got 'em out of the car anyway...
I plan to POR-15 my control arms, knuckles and all that... I had considered painting the torsion bars, but I thought either A) The prep-work on the bars would ruin them, as sanding or sandblasting them clean would scratch them. and B) that if I did, it would flake off anyway with the twisting of the metal.
Are these not concerns? I'd love to paint my bars while I've got 'em out of the car anyway...
TOA #839
- toro_mike
- Posts: 183
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- Years Owned: 1968 and 1969 W34
- Location: Denver, CO
- Contact:
Re: Torsion bar question
Chazzer wrote:Bill, what colour was the final drive painted new?
I may be wrong, but I believe the final drive was natural, i.e. not painted at all.
Mike
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Forum Administrator
1968 Toronado
1969 W34 Toronado
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1968 Toronado
1969 W34 Toronado
- Chazzer
- Posts: 120
- Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:17 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 146
- Years Owned: 1968 Ocean Mist Metallic, purchased September 2005. Ripped into a kazillion pieces in 2010 for a full blown resto. A few more kinks to work out and she’s almost done.
- Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Torsion bar question
Thanks Mike! I have been thinking along those lines lately myself.
Hey Twilight, Your concerns may be correct concerning the torsion bars. I wanted to remove mine and re-pack with grease since they are half off the car anyway. I thought once I had them out I would completely degrease them and review the situation.
I know mine are not very scaly or anything and I thought a light coat of paint may be ok. They however may never have been painted from new either. Mine are actually still attached to the car as I have not yet removed the cross member as of yet.
Hey Twilight, Your concerns may be correct concerning the torsion bars. I wanted to remove mine and re-pack with grease since they are half off the car anyway. I thought once I had them out I would completely degrease them and review the situation.
I know mine are not very scaly or anything and I thought a light coat of paint may be ok. They however may never have been painted from new either. Mine are actually still attached to the car as I have not yet removed the cross member as of yet.
Cheers, Jim
TOA# 146
TOA# 146
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- Posts: 191
- Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:52 am
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- Years Owned: restoring a '66, have Moto Guzzi motorcycles, an Audi convertible and a bunch of other junk
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Re: Torsion bar question
Mine are a medium bile green color, they look original with no signs of a repaint. I don't think they twist enough to pop the paint.
- xgecko
- Posts: 454
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:21 pm
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- Years Owned: My first Toronado was a 1968 W-34 with the bucket seats and center console... (weeps gently) It was a New England rustbucket in 1982 after less than 14 years. So sad. But it is what infected me and before I knew it I had another '68, a '69, a '70 and eventually inherited a friend's '67 and another friends '73. After buying my brand new Grand Prix in 1988 I retired the last of my Toronados and pulled the 455 I had rebuilt along the way and put it into storage in a friend's barn where it is to this day.
In Mid September of 2010 I happened to see a repeat of the show where Jay Leno did his 66 Toronado and had an instant remission of the disease which resulted in my purchase of a 1969 in very good condition. I am now in the process of fully rehabilitating it and hope to have it on the road in the spring of 2011. - Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Re: Torsion bar question
Bluecab describes the color perfectly... Under the grime that is what I found.
I have my Fuel Injected Toronado. Life is good!
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