Toronado.org

One thing leads to another, and I've got a few questions I can't seem to quite find the answer to in my service manual...

I'm working on my '66, and I have to replace the radiator. Can't seem to get the transmission coolant lines out of it... Any tips/tricks to get them out? Are they counter-threaded?

This project, lead me to my next question... Transmission filter.... I see it in my service manual, it does have a filter, or screen... But, I can't seem to find a replacement for it anywhere. Do you just flush it out, and re-use it?

Any dexron fluid should work with our THM425's right? I can't see anywhere in the service manual that specifies Dexron, which seems odd for a GM vehicle (it's usually plastered everywhere) Figured I'd use the latest Dexron VI if it's compatible.

Lastly, I have a heavily opinion-based question... On my Fiero and El Camino, I've run Seafoam through the crankcase to clean out all the sludge. In both cases, the vehicles seemed to run better. The fiero burns a tiny bit of oil, but it's less than a quart between oil changes. Now, I'm considering doing this to my Toronado.

It spent 20+ years sitting in a garage, never seeing the light of day. It's got 130k on it, with no rebuild. It doesn't burn any oil now, though it does burn a small amount of coolant. One of the lifters also sticks a bit, which is something Seafoam says it helps to remedy. Having sat so long, I'm sure some unpleasant things congealed inside the crankcase, and I'd love to clean them out. I'd also love to throw some full synthetic oil, like I do all my cars. But, I'm somewhat concerned that the sludge may keep it from leaking. I'm leaning towards rolling the dice and going for it.

Okay, got the coolant lines off... Just took penetrating oil, time, and a rubber mallet

A few thoughts... You do have flare nut wrenches? They make it much easier to remove the flare nuts safely. You got them off, so that is good, but if you don't have these wrenches I highly recommend them.

As for the filter, you can do what I just did; order up a $29.95 or so filter and gasket kit. Remove the tranny pan - this is a messy operation - and replace the filter and gasket.

Here is the correct filter kit:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ7/FK117.oap?pt=C0073&ppt=C0338

Refill with a good trans fluid - you do need to be careful here, I have the same problem so will research and determine fluid compatibility - OK, it looks like it is backwards compatible according to this wiki page:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON

As for your Seafoam question, this is a highly opinionated thing. Personally I have a policy of rebuilding any old engine before I will use it. I just do not trust that an old engine is going to perform well or reliably over the long run and I truly enjoy rebuilding engines. I have a very hard time watching the Car shows where they restore a classic but don't touch the engine then sell it for top dollar; without a new engine I would not be willing to pay unless the price reflected the unrestored engine properly. Agreed, it is not cheap to rebuild them nor can just anyone go and do so, but it is easier than one might think with our old monsters.

Seafoam tricks might do something, and I know people that swear by it, but I am personally very skeptical. If there is any significant amount of sludge under the valve covers then in my opinion the only good way to go is to rebuild. You then have the opportunity to choose stock or upgraded components, and depending on your intended usage model you may not need to do much beyond take it apart, have the block cleaned and honed, and then put it back together with a modern cam and lifter set which will significantly improve performance if chosen wisely.

xgecko wrote:A few thoughts... You do have flare nut wrenches? They make it much easier to remove the flare nuts safely. You got them off, so that is good, but if you don't have these wrenches I highly recommend them.

As for the filter, you can do what I just did; order up a $29.95 or so filter and gasket kit. Remove the tranny pan - this is a messy operation - and replace the filter and gasket.

Here is the correct filter kit:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ7/FK117.oap?pt=C0073&ppt=C0338

Refill with a good trans fluid - you do need to be careful here, I have the same problem so will research and determine fluid compatibility - OK, it looks like it is backwards compatible according to this wiki page:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON

As for your Seafoam question, this is a highly opinionated thing. Personally I have a policy of rebuilding any old engine before I will use it. I just do not trust that an old engine is going to perform well or reliably over the long run and I truly enjoy rebuilding engines. I have a very hard time watching the Car shows where they restore a classic but don't touch the engine then sell it for top dollar; without a new engine I would not be willing to pay unless the price reflected the unrestored engine properly. Agreed, it is not cheap to rebuild them nor can just anyone go and do so, but it is easier than one might think with our old monsters.

Seafoam tricks might do something, and I know people that swear by it, but I am personally very skeptical. If there is any significant amount of sludge under the valve covers then in my opinion the only good way to go is to rebuild. You then have the opportunity to choose stock or upgraded components, and depending on your intended usage model you may not need to do much beyond take it apart, have the block cleaned and honed, and then put it back together with a modern cam and lifter set which will significantly improve performance if chosen wisely.

What the heck? How did you find that filter kit? I spent an hour on oreily's website looking for that bloody thing last night.... But, the compatibility doesn't include my '66 on the list... Should be identical to a '67 though shouldn't it?

I know the dexron is backwards compatible, but i'm not sure that our transmissions are dexron compatible...

I'd love to rebuild my engine, and fully plan to. But, I wanna drive it around for a summer Or two and enjoy it before I disassemble it. I plan on doing it myself. I've taken an engine out before, and changed head gaskets,but this will be my first rebuild.

There is no difference between 66 through 78 in the filter kit. I see no reason it would not fit.

The Dexron fluid is the standard fluid for GM transmissions. It may not have existed back then, but it is what it became. You will be fine with pretty much any Dexron fluid.

I can understand the desire to drive the car in the summer as it is; my goal was somewhat similar but I am adamant about the engine being in top condition so I did a rebuild (just finishing up) that reused the entire bottom end as is. I invested in the top end this time around and will redo it during the fall-winter-spring season. My plan is to use the bottom end of this engine in my 68 which will not be as much of a performance car and I will use that engine as the basis for a new build for the 69. I plan to go with the Eagle Steel crank, KB Icon forged pistons with polished stock Olds rods and roller lifters in that build as well as fuel injection if I can afford it at that time. Should be possible as I have the whole winter to accumulate the fundage.

If you engine runs well enough you will indeed enjoy the summer. I found that the motors I have seem tired enough to be well worth rebuilding sooner rather than later, esp. given my penchant for power... I am actually very curious to see how much stronger the new one is against the 68 which is the first Toronado I drove for more than a mile or so in more than 20 years... I am also looking forward to seeing how much stiffer the 69 is now that I redid all the bushings, shocks and rubber bits up front and all four shocks in the back. Hope it made a difference as the 68 was rather soft and squishy seeming...

Alrighty, i'll order one up after work... Just seems so odd that it's not listed.

The engine seems to run well enough. There's some noise in one of the lifters as previously mentioned. But, I only drove it once It's a bear to get started though, I think the carb is gummed up. The big doors above the secondaries don't seem to open, can't push them open like I can all my other cars...

I'm going to throw 2 bottles of seafoam in 5 gallons of gas and run it through, shpuld clean it out for the time being. Ordered a rebuild kit for it. Will get one from Sparly when the engine is rebuilt. I plan to go for power on it as well, as much power as I can get withoit hampering dependibility, or changing the displacement.