Head Gasket Replacement

[Otto Skorzeny]

Were you able to slip the manifold out from under the distributor overhang without removing the dizzy?

Putting it back will be a bit tricky without a hoist.

[NicolasB]

Yes, the instructions on the service manual didn’t mention removing the distributor and instructed to remove the oil filler tube. Very tight fit, but it came off after multiple whacks with a mallet. Reinstalling the manifold by myself would be almost impossible considering it’s weight, so I’m going to have someone help me place it back in once I get it cleaned.

[Otto Skorzeny]

The '66 manual says to remove the dizzy but that looks like too much work if it isn't totally necessary.

It will be tricky to re-install the manifold, though even with two people. You'll have to lower it down to almost toching the enging and then slide it under the dizzy without messing up you gaskets and sealer.

Perhaps making a carrier/holder that bolts into the carburetor mounting holes would help so that you won't have to lean over the fenders so much to position the intake.

Since I'll be doing the same thing soon, I'll watch your progress.

[Otto Skorzeny]

Roland,

It sounds like you've blocked off your exhaust crossover ports. Have you noticed any improvement in performance? Less vapor lock or whatever?

[bcroe]

For heavy intake manifolds, I just use a chain hoist or the like, to
carefully lower it into position without having to bear the weight.
Bruce Roe

[roland]

It sounds like you've blocked off your exhaust crossover ports...

@ otto

Yes Otto, I´ve done that many times - not only with Toronado´s. 400 and 455 Pontiacs, 429 and 460 Ford use same technics. In most cases with blocked passages let the engine runs cooler and carb would not heated up to boil the gasoline. Better starts on hot days. The heat passage make only sense for arctic winter - may be in northern USA, Canada, Alaska or Sibiria

[Otto Skorzeny]

That's good to know. Is there anything else necessary or do the plates take care of all the trouble?

In my case the car runs perfectly fine but heats up so much after shutdown that it won't restart for an hour or more because the fuel boils in the carburetor.

I thought about having the passages welded up.

Can block off plates be made from the old valley pan?

I just pulled the intake off of mine this morning. It's nowhere near as coked up as Nick's but you can see how the pushrods in the center have black grime baked onto them from the exhaust heat.

There is some crud in the water passages but no more than I would expect to see in any vehicle.

So far I haven't found a gasket valley pan combo that has the crossover blocked off. Separate gaskets with the passage blocked off are available but I think the valley pan is useful in keeping crud off the bottom of the intake.

Block off plates sold for this purpose are $29 plus shipping. If I use something like this, I worry about the gasket not sitting flat in that area. FSM says to use sealer on both sided of the gasket. Does the sealer take up the difference in heightwhere the plates would go?

Mondello says plates should be fastened with high temp silicone. I assume that's the type of sealer I should use on both sides of the gaskets.

Any suggestions on what to do or not do is appreciated.

Another option is to install this Mondello aluminum intake for $900. I'd rather not do that if I don't have to. Of course its out of stock so it probably isn't really an option. What's the deal with the one big hole for the carburetor mount on the aluminum one instead of the 4 holes like the stock one?

https://mondelloperformance.com/product ... manifolds/

[NicolasB]

So the heads don’t look too good, and the block’s passages for cooling are blocked, no wonder the car overheated (on top of the small gasket leak). All I need to do is lift out the driver’s head and can take them to the machine shop. Also pistons looking a bit dark.

[Otto Skorzeny]

Nothing there looks really bad. I don't think you have anything to worry about with the pistons or heads. Clean out the water passages with coat hangers, bottle brushes, etc. whatever you can jam in there to clear out the crud.

[NicolasB]

Okay great, I was worried that I would have to do more than I what I wished. I just dropped off the heads and the manifold at the machine shop and they’ll call me on Friday to let me know if the heads are still good. $200 for valve job on both heads (combined) and $20 to wash the manifold.