Toronado.org

Hello again, does anyone know what the ratio is for the power steering box in a 1st generation Toronado (mine is a '69)? Mine needs to be rebuilt (leaking fluid and soaking the rubber in the steering coupler) but don't know if I should get it rebuilt, buy one that is remanufactured, or upgrade the internals of it for quick ratio. Right now my steering has way too much play and wanders on the freeway, but the main reasons for this are the steering coupler and the inner tie rods. I ordered these parts and will replace the old ones, but for those who have their steering in good shape, how "direct" is the steering box in terms of turning and performing quick maneuvers? Thanks!

In RockAuto I noticed that they sell new ones from BBB Industries, but I'm not sure how good that brand is.

My car steers like a typical 50 year old "good" car with power steering. I don't have any complaints with it. It's straight and comfortable on the road and doesn't require an inordinate amount of effort to do what I want it to do and I never feel as if it's too slow or requires more turns to point it in the direction I want to go.

I personally would not change the ratio but I also don't enjoy driving "new" cars. I nearly wrecked a rental Dodge truck a year ago when I pulled out of the lot because the steering was so "tight". Since all my vehicles are between 40 and 65 years old, I'm used to how they handle and how they need to be driven.

I would have your existing steering gear rebuilt. I had Lares do the steering gear on a 1976 F-150. They did a great job. They also offered the option of changing the steering ratio from 4 turns lock to lock to 2 turns lock to lock. I chose to keep it original and I'm glad I did.

I'm not auto-crossing my vehicles so I don't need the tighter steering. It also (for me) makes the vehicles less comfortable to drive on the freeway with one hand.

You can contact Lares directly: Lares offers technical support for all of their products. Please call 1-800-555-0638 to troubleshoot your issues. Misdiagnosis is common on steering components, and the technicians will help you determine if your part is the problem.

1. "New" parts--alternators, starters, etc. are typically Communist Chinese junk. Be very careful when buying "new".

2. There's a bunch of seals, and two adjustments on the steering gear. The adjustment that most folks screw with is the one that's performed AFTER the other one, which almost nobody even knows about. Lots of steering gears get screwed-up by folks trying to "tighten" the steering.

3. Consider buying the seal kit, and just replacing the leaking seal(s). This will include doing both adjustments. Probably all you need.

4. Rag joints are a common problem on GM (and other) vehicles. A fluid-soaked rag joint is probably ruined, but that's not a huge loss since it was almost certainly worn-out anyway. (They're ALL worn-out by now. They were worn-out decades ago.) Some vehicles have optional steering shafts (OEM or aftermarket) that replace the rag joint with a metal U-joint. I did this on my '88 K1500 pickup. HUGE improvement! I don't know of a direct upgrade for the Toro, but there may be one.

I agree about new parts being junk.

If you can keep an original part and rebuild it yourself or have it done professionally, do so. I did that with the starter on my Toro 7 years ago.

Okay, I’ll see if I can fix this one in the future, thanks!

I noticed that one of the lines to the steering box is leaking so I’m going to have to replace it as well. I just replaced the inner and outer tie rods on both sides and the rag joint, but still feel some play in the wheel. The tires also move left to right as if the tie rods are bad, even though they are new. Could it be the idler or pitman arm?

I think you meant to say "drag link" rather than rag joint.

It could be any of the items in the steering linkage.

Have someone turn the wheel slowly back and forth while you're under the car watching the movement of parts. Start on one side and work your way toward the center then to the other side of the car.

You will see a lag at the joint that's worn out. Do the test at each joint starting at full lock then turning the opposite direction.

Oh sorry, I meant that I also replaced the rag joint in terms of steering. The old one was broken. I didn’t touch the drag link in this case.

Okay, I’ll check again this week and see what’s still causing the problem.

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Oooh! nice new rag joint. Those are the same front shocks I have on my car.

Are your outer CV boots torn? If so get them fixed ASAP. I used a clamshell type by Dorman to repair both of mine.

When doing your steering test, it would be easier if both wheels were off the groung.