Compression test results 1966-- 425 C.I.

[Schurkey]

1. 122
2. 130
3. 110
4. 119
5. 119
6. 112
7. 119
8. 130.

Compression pressure results vary with the accuracy/repeatability of the gauge, altitude, cranking speed, camshaft profile, etc.

Yes, normally about 150 is "normal". I prefer to see 180-ish, but I don't see that often, and when I do it's either from performance-built engines or grocery-getters with excess carbon in the chambers.

However, anything over 80-ish should be enough to get the engine running. Do you have spark? Fouled spark plugs? Ancient, un-burnable gasoline? Empty fuel tank or defective fuel pump?

Once you get it running, a cylinder balance test is recommended.

[Checkov]

Hello.


Spark is there, I've seen brighter
Spark plugs look good
Fuel is fine
New fuel pump and fuel
New carbuerator
Wires are good enough
New distributor cap and condenser


I found a timing light at a pawn shop for 15 bucks. Just getting ready to go out and check the dwell ( again) and the timing.

[Checkov]

I thought the new timing light was shot because I couldn't get it to work and had gotten it from a pawn shop. I tried it on another car (mustang 1996) and it works great.

So now I'm not getting spark at my 1966 Toro plugs and I was before. I haven't even touched the distributor cap or points (both I put on new).

So I guess the next step......?
Ignition switch
Crank it over and watch to make sure the timing shaft moving up through the distributor is still rotating.


Oh almost forgot. With the ignition switch on I get a spark from inside the distributor cap when I short out metal around the points BUT I DON'T get a spark when I carefully use a screw driver to move the actual points away from each other then back (and I think I used too) until they make contact.

So because I'm getting spark inside the distributor cap/ points I assume my low voltage feed is good? Coil must be good (I put a new one on last yr).

Eightballz, a bad timing chain is still in the running isn't it?

Thanks all

[Otto Skorzeny]

That wouldn't affect the spark.

Pull the wire from the coil off the dizzy and see if you get a good strong spark out of it. If yes, the trouble is at the dizzy. If not, the trouble is upstream at the coil or before it.

Retrace all the wires to the coil and dizzy and make sure not are cracked or broken. I had a similar problem on a '64 Galaxie. At the firewall was a rubber plug-in connector that included the ignition circuit. Inside the connector was a lot of corrosion.

[Schurkey]

There are so many possibilities.

You said you had spark, but now the timing light won't trigger. That could be as simple as a fouled spark plug. The spark energy bleeds out through the fouled plug, never building up the voltage needed to trigger the timing light.

I suggest a spark tester connected to the coil wire, and grounded to any convenient piece of engine iron you have nearby. Crank the engine and see if you have spark, and if not , assure that the distributor rotor is turning as the engine cranks. A completely failed timing chain or (more likely) a failed roll-pin that holds the distributor gear to the distributor mainshaft can stop the distributor from turning.

Assure you have power to the + side of the coil, and the wire from the - side of the coil isn't broken or frayed as it goes over to the points. With the points CLOSED, use a non-conductive tool--a chopstick, a plastic skewer for shish Kabob, or what ever you have handy--to pop open the points. Every time you open the points, you should get a healthy spark at the spark tester.

There are many designs of spark testers, my favorite design is being phased-out because the spark is exposed and some idiot could get an owwie if they put their tongue on it while cranking the engine.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050SFVO2/ref ... ark+Tester



You might find a similar tool at a well-stocked auto parts store, also.

[Eightballz]

Had the same issue...new condensers (coil and dist) fixed it

[Checkov]

Schurkey and eightballz and all,

First thanks for the help.

I went to town today and bought a spark tester.

When I got back I checked all wires first, made sure the distributor rotated when cranked and it looked fine. I also tried the shis kabob stick as a lever with the points closed and carefully pried them open. Each time I got a weak spark sound but could see no light.

To see if the tester worked I tried it on my mustang. Connected it , held it in my hand and told the wife to crank it. 3 quick shocks to my hand later I realized it works well

Then I connected it to a spark plug and the wire from the coil on the mustang and had it turned on. I got a very bright light on the tester that lit up the whole plastic globe, my wife said it reminded her of a neon light.

Then to the Toronado.
First I placed the spark tester to the wire from the coil and made it part of the circuit to the top of the distributor cap. I got a rapidly pulsating light. The light was weak and had a orangish -red color.
Next I made the tester part of the circuit to a spark plug from the distributor. I got a slightly weaker light that was the same color but much slower pulsations (I attribute the timing/distributor system doing its job and "parceling out the spark to all 8 plugs).

To honestly compare the two cars it would be something like this:
66 toro. --
96. GT ------------------------- (In terms of brightness of the spark tester)

So I'm guessing the culprit is weak spark from the coil???
It's a new coil I put on last year.
Could it be the ignition switch
Other ideas?


Thanks very much all for any further suggestions
Checkov

PS Otto , one little puzzle I have is the car had two owners before me and I'm wondering if I'm betting the correct power feed to the coil.

[Schurkey]

[Edit]I've re-read your posting, and I can't tell for sure, but it seems like your spark-tester is inserted in-line between a plug wire and the spark plug. That's not a proper test because if the plug is fouled, the spark tester won't light up well or at all. You need a separate, trustworthy ground for the spark tester.

Got a link to the tester you bought?[/Edit]




What happens to spark intensity if you run a jumper wire from battery + to coil +, and then crank the engine?

If it improves to match your other vehicles, you may need to look into bad connections/corroded wiring between battery and ignition switch, and between ignition switch and ignition coil. If it doesn't improve, I'd be looking at the coil, and the wiring between coil - and the points, and between the points and ground.

Wiring diagrams and a proper service manual will be near-essential.

[bcroe]

66 toro. --
96. GT ------------------------- (In terms of brightness of the spark tester)

So I'm guessing the culprit is weak spark from the coil???
It's a new coil I put on last year.
Could it be the ignition switch
Other ideas?

Checkov
PS Otto , one little puzzle I have is the car had two owners before me and I'm wondering if I'm betting the correct power feed to the coil.

The new electronic ignitions are more powerful, but this sounds like too much difference.
Its likely the coil; could be a high resistance ballast resistor. I doubt very much its the
ignition switch. Check also the points capacitor. Was the old coil bad? I have no
confidence in replacement parts these days. good luck, Bruce Roe

[Checkov]

Bcroe and all,

Its not running but I have made definite progress.
1. I decided to test the power feed to the distrib. First i blocked open the points with a wooden golf T then went to the negative thin wire from the coil. When I grasped the connector, to pull the connection apart, the wire slipped right out of the metal crimp! I had pinched it too hard and it was only holding on with a spare thread or two, the rest was cut. I had the thing covered with electrical tape so it wasn't obvious.
2. I found a little corrosion (already in 2 years since I bought the coil) on the washers on the posts and sanded them off.

The result of these two changes is a much better spark both between the coil and distrib. And between the distributor and plugs. (I wasn't even getting a spark at the plugs before!). But it still wasnt a strong bright spark.

Therefore I performed one final test. I ran my jumper cable from the +post of the battery directly to the +terminal of the coil and cranked the engine. My wife said the size of the spark almost doubled. The battery then died so I could not work anymore this morning.

Due to the last test I'm going to order a new ignition switch (universal) and a new battery (after charging all night I'm down to a minute or less of cranking time). When it gets here and I install I'm going to check the ignition wiring as well.

Have fun with your (running) Toronados!