replacing the stall or torque converter

[Zeppelin]

So I have my engine apart. Been having some issues with deciding if I should pull the tranny with the engine. Not sure where the access point is to install the torque converter. If there isn't one wouldn't it be easier to pull and stab the tranny out side of the engine bay? Also what's the best way to pull the engine out of this car? Not too sure if it's anything special but as I'm looking at it Some things make me scratch my head. Could you tell me the break down of pulling the engine? If it's a normal engine pull then just tell me that it's normal. If not could you break it down for me? Also since I'll be in there this car has less then 100k original miles, should I just change the transmission chain? Thanks for the tips and advice guys!

[Doc Hubler]

Hi,

To start with, provide year of Toro, and some pictures wouldn't hurt. Your location could be helpful in case other members might be nearby and could help. Frankly, if this isn't your thing, you should take it to professionals that have done these. Be careful -- I have seen many of the Aluminum tranny housings destroyed by people "Yanking" the engine out. We are in SE Washington state and can do the job for you if you're interested.

Access point to torque converter is on the passenger side. Not a "normal" engine pull, but not terribly difficult either.

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[Zeppelin]

I've pulled a sbc 383, 350 and various v6's before, and I've got a few nhra racers and mechanics helping me as well so I'm pretty solid as far as that's concerned but I live in Denver Colorado, I've met a few guys on here as well as the owner of this page. Still I was just wondering for the most for what challenges are to be forseen as to avoid things like you mentioned "yanking" out the engine damage. Id just like some tips and suggestions. I love this car too much to damage it. It's a 1969 Oldsmobile tornado completely stock has about 97k original miles two owner car with original papers and package booklet. Seats and head liners are tore, dash is almost imaculate, this was grandmas car so most likely not driven hard compression per cylinder is almost of the lot perfect between 150 to 155, no more no less. So thus why I'm taking extra caution to ensure a successful engine pull and overhaul. And for the purist I'm sorry nothing I'm doing is permanent. Just a cam, better intake manifold (yes hood modifications but I got a scrap hood) higher torque converter, port matching, a exhaust header that I'm custom building to fit the body, and all new gaskets all the way around and possibly new bearings... Why because it's what I wanna do, it's not for drag just for fun. The bottom end will come eventually. I'd post pictures but I have absolutely no idea how to post pictures to a forum. So like I said and tips and advice would be much appreciated. Please no negative Nancy's if there is a will there is a way. I've got my mind set. You can either pitch in to make an awesome car or tune out. Sorry just a lot of people take down the situation. Thanks for the help guys.

[Doc Hubler]

I think one of the best things you can do is go to ebay and buy a manual for 1969 Oldsmobile. All the Toronado specific stuff is in there as well. Good luck!

[bcroe]

So I have my engine apart. Been having some issues with deciding if I should pull the tranny with the engine. Not sure where the access point is to install the torque converter. If there isn't one wouldn't it be easier to pull and stab the tranny out side of the engine bay? Also what's the best way to pull the engine out of this car? Not too sure if it's anything special but as I'm looking at it Some things make me scratch my head. Could you tell me the break down of pulling the engine? If it's a normal engine pull then just tell me that it's normal. If not could you break it down for me? Also since I'll be in there this car has less then 100k original miles, should I just change the transmission chain? Thanks for the tips and advice guys!

I am not sure what you are trying to fix. But I have had very bad luck with rebuilt engines,
whereas the factory engine properly maintained will probably make 200K miles. My policy
has become this. Don't mess with the short block if it has good compression, low oil use,
and no bad noises. HOWEVER, there is lower level maintenance to keep up. FOR SURE an
engine that age needs the original timing chain set replaced with an all steel set, no plastic
which performs badly and can wreck an engine. Distributors wear out.

The trans on the other hand, is full of rubber & plastic parts that die of old age by now.
Go through it and replace all seals, possibly the friction clutches. If the hard parts have
minimal wear, they can be re used. If you wait till a clutch pack piston seal lets go, it
can slip, burn up, and make enough poison to wreck a lot of good parts.

As advised, gat a factory manual. Its possible to remove a trans & final drive from below,
if you have the tools to deal with 400 lb. A more straight forward way is to remove all
from the top. I always take the engine out first. using a chain to keep the final drive in
position. Then the trans & final drive may be lifted out together. Its possible to take it
all out together, if you can deal with some 1100 lb. This makes it very likely something
left in the engine compartment will be damaged in the process.

As for the torque converter, there is a vertical 2 piece plate just in front of it that must
be removed to take out the 3 converter to flex plate bolts. The plate has 4 small bolts,
one is on the left rear of the engine. Im guessing your trans chain is OK, but leaks
around there can be a problem. Bruce Roe