wide open throttle problem

[followme21]

So I have a rebuilt carb from sparky on m 66 Toronado, The issue I'm having is at wide open throttle the secondary's will not open when I have the kick-down rod attached. If I remove the rod the carb works fine. What is happening is on the switch there is a little tab that stops the switch from going to far I guess., well that tab is hitting and stopping the throttle from opening all the way. I have tried shortening the rod, but then it increases my idle speed. What am I doing wrong here? Thanks .. btw I have not road tested yet.. this is just sitting in the driveway.. Going to get some gas and see if it will work on the open road.

[Otto Skorzeny]

Please take photos of the parts in question. Where is the tab you're talking about? On the kickdown switch? On the carb?

I have a '66 and my rod seemed to be going too far down Then it would stiff arm and keep the throttle from opening. My kickdown switch is not working right either so if anybody has one, shoot me an email.

[followme21]

The tab I'm talking about is on the kickdown switch itself. I'll try to get a picture in a little bit.

[followme21]

Well I fiqured my issue out. I was attching the kickdown linkage in the hole above the throttle cable stud. After finding some pictures online I discovered there is a hole below where the throttle cable attaches, Its sort of hard to see because the throttle cable is blocking the view of that hole. I made the switch and adjusted it and it seems to be working correctly now. I fiqured it was something silly like that.

[1977 Cutly]

Glad you figured it out. Please post pics so when I do the same thing I know what to do!

[Otto Skorzeny]

Yes, Cutly and I need to see what's what. Maybe I'm having a similar problem but I'm pretty sure at least part of it is that the kickdown switch not working right.

[followme21]

I think I have attached this pic correctly, You can see where the correct place to correct the solid kick-down rod is (below the throttle cable). The hole above the throttle cable is for the cruise (which mine does not have) If you need any other pic let me know. I adjusted the lever by using a test light. The brown wire on the switch is hot all the time, as you move the switch manual the green wire will become hot a little over half way, (if your switch is working). I held the switch there then adjusted the length of the rod to match that spot, in relationship to where I wanted the throttle position to be. There may be a better way of doing it but it worked.

[Otto Skorzeny]

Thanks for the tip adjusting that rod. I'm going to look at mine tomorrow to make sure it's in the right spot.

Tell me the reasoning behind your adjustment method. What does it mean when the green wire goes hot when the switch is halfway down and why is that the optimal length for the rod?

Will you take a photo of your kickdown switch - both sides?

Is there a "stop" on or in the switch to keep the lever from moving too far in either direction? Mine seems to drop too far down.

[followme21]

When the green wire goes hot that is sending the power down to the trans to "kick down". I sort of held the throttle a little over half way, simulating the driver stepping on the accelerator, and at the same time had the k-d switch "hot" and set the length at that dist. And yes my switch has a stopper at the bottom, as well as the top of the switch travel. I will post a pic of that in the morning.

[followme21]

Well I will have to upload the pic when I get home this evening. I forgot to change the setting in the camera and it was set on a to high of file size so it will not upload them.