Just how bad are factory Drum brakes on '66?

[Twilight Fenrir]

Y'know that your car will dissolve if you remove that tag...

Oh, is that what it is? I thought the feds would come knocking on my door like that tag on my matress

[xgecko]

No, it is what passed for corrosion protection back in the day...

[Twilight Fenrir]

Alright! Finally got myself a torsion bar unloader! I managed to score one of the orriginal GM tools, so I know it's compatible!

This place here had the tool... but they wanted too much for it for my tastes...
http://www.gmdealertools.com/index.html

I found one on eBay for about $50 less, at $120 with shipping. The eBay one is pretty much brand new, the other one was a little beat up.

That's the very last thing I needed... I'm all set for this winter project now... And, now I can stop spending money like it's going out of style >_> It's frightening how fast it goes when you really get into a project...

[xgecko]

Yah, I know about money into these projects... next up for my winter, among other things including a tranny, is Holley HP Sequential Port Fuel Injection... my wallet is cringing already!

Keep us posted!

[mikesteam]

Just thought i would add this - I am 54 years old i worked at sears in breaks and chassie when i was in my early 20s . i rebuild a lot of drum brakes I HATE THEM ! discs - a couple of bolts there off! . OK today i know a few BIG rig truck drivers Mack , Peterbelt etc. THEY STILL USE DRUMS! for brakes front and rear WHY? drums last longer maybe. I found a guy in north carolina who has dome 66 toros drum to disc no problem with wheels. I will work with him . I know some will say no way - i have found ways when others have not - i have been under cars since i was 9 years old. Good luck you all.

[Twilight Fenrir]

Okay! It is, in fact, very possible to remove the torsion bars just by taking out the knuckle! After removing the knuckle, I stuck a jack stand with a towel under the torsion bar just in case, loosened the adjuster screw, and wailed on everything until it came out. (Being careful not to damage the torsion bar) using 69W34's technique of a pair of 2x4's with a hole drilled in them.

I've got both sides completely dis-assembled now. My passenger side is just waiting for paint to dry, and I can put it together again.



I took my torsion bar out with the intension of cleaning it up and painting it with POR-15 like everything else... but, much to my surprise, when I cleaned the grime off the bars, they are still factory green. With no scratches in the paint or rust... I think I'll just leave them be.

Before I painted, I assembled the upper control arm, and the knuckle with the calliper on it... And everything seems to fit just fine. The upper arm has to be pointed downward at almost a 45 degree angle in order for it to get in the way of the calliper. So it would seem you can use a '66 upper control arm in a disc-brake swap, as long as you stick to first-gen era disc brakes. It's not a 100% certainty, as I haven't had final assembly... but it certainly looks promising, my risk may have just paid off

I bought some POR-15 engine enamel... they had a color called Pontiac Light Metalic Blue, which I plan on painting my callipers with, and my engine eventually. It should be close enough to the orriginal engine color for my concerns. When I get around to painting the callipers I'll take a picture.


I'm considering replacing my entire brake lines with braided stainless... So far though, the longest segment I can find is 60"... and the run to the rear is 10 feet... It's not a big deal to have a splice in the middle I guess... I'd just... rather not. The fewer connections the better. I haven't decided for certain weather I am going to do this now, or at a later date...

The only reason now is really appealing, is because I'd like to put DOT5 in the system, and right now I'll have new pistons on all four wheels... which seems like an ideal time to do so.... I've still got 3 months before my first car show of the year, so I can take my time making up my mind on that part.

[Chazzer]

Hey Twilight, Looking Good! Thanks for update!

Did you remove the torsion bars from rear crossmember? I believe that is what you suggested using Bill's technique. I have not removed mine from the rear cross member yet.

I was wondering if I really need to remove mine after all. I guess the benefit is they can be repacked with grease at this point.

Let me ask the group: Hey Toro experts, is there really any benefit to remove the torsion bars from rear crossmember other then the grease thing? What whould you guys to at this stage?

Any input is always appreciated!

[Twilight Fenrir]

I'd have to say there's no benefit... I took out my passenger one, my drivers is still in, and I have not decided weather or not to bother...

I wanted to paint my torsion key, and bar while I had everything appart, but my bar paint is still immaculate. I suppose pulling it now will make it easier to pull again after I re-grease it. So I am leaning towards doing it.

[Twilight Fenrir]

Well, it's much easier putting the torsion bar in than it was taking it out. So, yeah, I am going to remove my driver side one as well tomorrow. I'm putting in my new bushings on my drivers side at the moment... what a pain... But, hopefully it will all be worth it.

Also, here we are, half way done! (Okay, not really half-way, I still have to do the plumbing too... and attatch the callipers, but you know what I mean!)

[Twilight Fenrir]

Aaaand I'm done!

Finished torquing everything to spec today, putting in cotter pins, bleeding the lines and took it out for a test drive. Car does indeed stop! So I didn't screw up!

Just to re-iterate, I did NOT use newer upper control arms. I rebuilt my original '66's and used knuckles from a '69. Everything works just fine, and I cannot see any conflict between the parts. So unless it is a different length or something, the only reason you'd need a new upper one seems to be if you are using non-first-gen parts.

Unfortunately, my rear drivers wheel is locking up before the rest, however I already have a new wheel cylinder for that, so it's not a big problem, and it only happens when I really stomp on it. I'll see about getting an appointment for an alignment Monday, and hopefully I'll be back out on the road again by the end of the week!


(Okay, the upper balljoint isn't torqued in this pic, and the shock is obviously missing, but I didn't take another picture before I put the wheel on)


Hello calliper, I see you!


Ouch, what a rats nest of tubing... I'm looking into getting Cunifer tubing, at which I will replace all of my lines. But that might fall to next winters project. Depending on how ambitious I feel over the summer. My old tubing is in remarkably good shape, minus a couple of nuts being rusted to the tubing by the wheels.