Good deal. It looks like you're on the right track. The combination of weak battery, weak connections, and possibly a weak coil will surely keep a car from starting or running.
I wouldn't want to remove the ignition switch without proof that it's a culprit. Fix all the wiring issues and see what happens before removing the ignition switch. As Bruce said, those aren't normally prone to breaking.
Also, if you start swapping parts without 100% confirmation that the part is actually bad, it throws too many variables into the mix if the problem continues. Repair all the known problems first and see what happens before swapping parts on a guess. Then, only do one part at a time if necessary.
My guess is bad wiring and connections. The coil might be bad too even though its new but probably not. Put the old coil back on and see what happens when you perform the same tests as you just listed.
Compression test results 1966-- 425 C.I.
- Otto Skorzeny
- Posts: 1716
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- Years Owned: 1966 Toronado
- Doc Hubler
- Posts: 363
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- Years Owned: 1967
Re: Compression test results 1966-- 425 C.I.
I agree with Otto, however, one thing I found with the ignition switch on my 67 when I took it apart was that the plastic connector housing for the wires that actually plugs into the switch had partially melted. WHo knows for sure why. I never had trouble starting my car, but suspect that one time it got cranked really hard and overheated. Luckily not to the point something shorted. It's little issues like these that add up to bigger problems like the car not starting or continuing to run properly. I was able to find a correct replacement for the ignition connector.
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bcroe
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Re: Compression test results 1966-- 425 C.I.
Doc Hubler wrote:I agree with Otto, however, one thing I found with the ignition switch on my 67 when I took it apart was that the plastic connector housing for the wires that actually plugs into the switch had partially melted. WHo knows for sure why. I never had trouble starting my car, but suspect that one time it got cranked really hard and overheated. Luckily not to the point something shorted. It's little issues like these that add up to bigger problems like the car not starting or continuing to run properly. I was able to find a correct replacement for the ignition connector.
That old wiring just wasn't designed to last this long. No gold or silver in the contacts;
they warm up & start to oxidize, then the resistance increases, then they get hotter, and
pretty soon they burn out. Cleaning contacts might extend the life a couple more decades.
Jumping 12V direct from the bat + to the coil + will give the same boost as starting (shorting
out the ballast resistor), But don't do it too much to avoid damage. Bruce Roe
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