Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

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Otto Skorzeny
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Re: Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

Postby Otto Skorzeny » Sat Nov 21, 2020 10:39 am

I don't think you need to worry about that condenser. They're only a few dollars, though. If you start using the radio and it's all static buzz, then you can buy one.

I don't know anything about the Accel brand coil. I know it's the standard Auto Zone brand.

This car has a resistor ignition wire instead of a separate ballast resistor.

NicolasB
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Re: Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

Postby NicolasB » Sat Nov 21, 2020 10:49 pm

Ah okay, that’s a relief haha. So I just replaced the coil with a new one, and still no spark. I checked the plugs again and they are all installed properly (I checked the firing order again to be sure). I also fully charged the battery to see if that did anything, but no luck. Distributor cap and rotor replaced too. I’m not sure what else could be the issue. Maybe the points have gone bad? When I checked the dwell a few weeks ago it was a perfect 30 degrees. Could I have done something wrong when I replaced the cap and rotor?

This whole issue mainly happened after I simply replaced the spark plugs.

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Re: Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

Postby Tuco » Sun Nov 22, 2020 6:43 am

Turn the ignition on and check to see if you’re getting + voltage at the coil. Are you sure that the dist. Is in the right position? Even if the firing order is correct, you could have put the wires in the wrong spots. Check for TDC and make sure the dist. matches up. Also check the points. They may be burnt. Run some emery paper thru them.

I always scrap the points and condenser and install the Pertronix ignition. No more points to mess with.

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Otto Skorzeny
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Re: Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

Postby Otto Skorzeny » Sun Nov 22, 2020 7:31 am

How do you know you aren't getting a spark? Did you test it or are you just assuming there's no spark?

Have you checked to see whether the dizzy is getting power?

Have someone crank the car while you hold the center wire over some piece of metal on the car. Stick a little wire or nail up in there if necessary.

So the car was starting and running until you installed new spark plugs? After the new plugs were installed did it start and run at all?

Do you have the old plugs? Are you sure the new ones are the correct plugs and that they are gapped correctly? As I recall, they are AC 45S and should be gapped at .030".

Are all the wires to the dizzy and coil connected in the right places?

NicolasB
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Re: Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

Postby NicolasB » Sun Nov 22, 2020 8:16 am

Shoot I’m sorry, I meant spark plug wires.

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Re: Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

Postby NicolasB » Sun Nov 22, 2020 8:25 am

I based the order on how it was set up before I swapped the old wires. I did follow what was mentioned on the manifold (and I think it’s right), but I want to be sure. I also used this diagram for reference. Is this correct?
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NicolasB
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Re: Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

Postby NicolasB » Sun Nov 22, 2020 10:10 am

Wow, I can’t believe I missed this. I think this is where the problem lies...
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NicolasB
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Re: Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

Postby NicolasB » Sun Nov 22, 2020 12:14 pm

Update: So it was the distributor wire! The engine fires right up. I can’t believe I went through all that for something so simple. Now I’m going to check the timing so I can complete the whole tune-up. Thanks guys! I definitely learned more about the ignition system after this haha

NicolasB
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Re: Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

Postby NicolasB » Sat Nov 28, 2020 5:52 pm

Just another quick question: My timing is set to 10 degrees btdc (idling) but I checked the book and it only applies for the W-34 package. Should I set it to its original specs (8 degrees btdc)? Also it says at 850rpm, so does that mean that I have to push the throttle a little while I set the timing (I believe the toro idles at 750rpm, which matches the specs of the carb).

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Otto Skorzeny
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Re: Distributor Cap/Spark Plug Wires

Postby Otto Skorzeny » Sun Nov 29, 2020 6:46 am

10 deg btdc won't hurt the engine unless you are experiencing engine knock. I have mine set at the factory mark.

Set the timing in the normal way. Disconnect and plug the vacuum lines. Adjust the idle speed to the rpm required to set timing. After timing is set, readjust the rpm to whatever the book says.


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