Alternator identification

[orphage]

Hello all,

What would be the right part number for my 69 Toro Delco Remy alternator? Mine is 1100834 (37 amp) but it is not listed in the Oldsmobile part catalog.

I googled it and it seems my alternator would come from a 68 or 69 Chevy but digging deeper I found a Delco Camaro part catalog listing it and I got more confused... Whats Production No. vs Service No.? Are they equivalent to the Oldsmobile Division?

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My car has no AC, no rear defogger but power windows, power seat and HD cooling. I even can't say how many amps I should have since all manuals state a different amps requirement for my car, from 37 to 63 amps.

Some forums state that both 1100834 and 1100842 were widely used through GM divisions but should I consider my alternator original to my Toro or it may have been replaced long time ago? Or I should have a get 1963778 as listed in the part catalog?

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orphage

[Otto Skorzeny]

What is your goal? Are you trying to do an exact, factory correct restoration? Or do you just want a correct alternator that functions properly and keeps your battery charged?

As far as I know, the part numbers are the same across GM lines.

If you have a decent starter/generator rebuilder near you, they'll be able to rebuild the one on your car now and tell you its output.

If you just want to buy a new one, I'd get the 55 amp one you have circled..

[orphage]

Otto,

I don't want a concours car but I try to see how original is my car. Since all documentation I found lists different information I got very confused and I can't say if it's original or not.
Also, the concern I have with this alternator is more about the 37 amps its producing. Is it enough to power the car and charge the battery?

[bcroe]

Generally all alternators of same year will interchange, you might need to clock
around the back to get terminals in the right place. A larger alternator might
involve a different regulator or a resistor added to help light off the field. If
the pulley is too small, a larger alternator may increase belt slip.

I gave up on those earlier alternators, am just using 75-80 types rewired for
internal regulator, again some may use a resistor or 2 GEN bulbs to help
startup. Do that if the rpm needs to be pretty high to put out the light.
Bruce Roe

[Otto Skorzeny]

Unless you plan on adding a lot of electrical bullshit to your car that it doesn't currently have, the original spec equipment will be fine.

People always tell me to switch the generator in my '56 Cadillac to an alternator but the generator has been doing its job perfectly for the 18 years I've been driving the car in daily use. The engineers who designed these cars knew what they were doing. If you're adding a CD player, stereo, a/c, etc, then go with a higher output unit. If not, use whatever works and don't worry too much about it.

[Otto Skorzeny]

The differences in output you've found may be a result of newer units being recommended as in service replacements for orignal units.

If you took your 1966 Toronado to the dealership for a new alternator in 1979, the would most likely install the current higher output model rather than the lower output original. Perhaps the GM parts manuals would list the higher output model number as the appropriate replacement for out of date cars.

[gearhead141]

The alternator you have now is configured for an external regulator, and is most likely original to the car. A check on Rock Auto for a replacement shows only 55 amp units which are most likely internal regulated. As Mr. Roe indicated, you are just fine with what you have and he has gone to the more modern alternators most likely for the sake of convenience. The choice is yours in the end.

[bcroe]

My first cars had generators which supplied enough power, being driven 40,000 miles
a year at speed and largely at night. The first problem was failure without warning
every 12 months. Soon a failed gen was found to have worn out brushes, and after
repair was kept on the shelf for a quick swap. Later I learned to swap them before
the brushes or bearings failed.

The technology of alternators was known, but required the use of huge selenium
rectifier stacks for DC. When very compact and reliable silicon rectifier diodes
became available (from the new transistor industry), the engineers were able to
use the superior alternators in cars. Without a high current arcing commutator,
the slip ring brushes might last 4 times as long. And the alt could deliver more
output, both at speed and at idle, no cooling vents needed.

The first alts eliminated the current limiting relay, but still used an arcing voltage
regulator to control the field. Soon that control was replaced with a solid state
control eliminating the arc, and small enough to fit inside the alt. I liked seeing
that mechanical reg and wiring disappear from the car, service came down to one
unit. And this unit did not generate any interference in my radio.

Old car owners may choose the level of technology to use, the original engineers
did not have that choice. Bruce Roe

[bcroe]

My first cars had generators which supplied enough power, being driven 40,000 miles
a year at speed and largely at night. The first problem was failure without warning
every 12 months. Soon a failed gen was found to have worn out brushes, and after
repair was kept on the shelf for a quick swap. Later I learned to swap them before
the brushes or bearings failed.

The technology of alternators was known, but required the use of huge selenium
rectifier stacks for DC. When very compact and reliable silicon rectifier diodes
became available (from the new transistor industry), the engineers were able to
use the superior alternators in cars. Without a high current arcing commutator,
the slip ring brushes might last 4 times as long. And the alt could deliver more
output, both at speed and at idle, no cooling vents needed.

The first alts eliminated the current limiting relay, but still used an arcing voltage
regulator to control the field. Soon that control was replaced with a solid state
control eliminating the arc, and small enough to fit inside the alt. I liked seeing
that mechanical reg and wiring disappear from the car, service came down to one
unit. And this unit did not generate any interference in my radio.

Old car owners may choose the level of technology to use, the original engineers
did not have that choice. Bruce Roe

[Schurkey]

I wouldn't walk across the street to pick up a free 10DN externally-regulated alternator.

Swapping to a 10- or 12SI internally-regulated alternator is SO easy, provides about double the output with a significant boost at idle, fits like a glove, and is dirt-cheap.

You'd need a $6 pigtail with plastic connector body, (available at every parts store in America) and two, three-inch jumper wires.