66 headlight doeasn't go totally down

[1977 Cutly]

All four lights lights up, and both sides go up and down, but the drivers side was stuck when I bought it. I unstuck it with some force and a lot of spray oil.

Now it doesn't fully retract. Any ideas before I just go tearing into it?

Pass side is 100% functional and can be used as a reference if needed.

Thanks

[Otto Skorzeny]

All four lights lights up, and both sides go up and down, but the drivers side was stuck when I bought it. I unstuck it with some force and a lot of spray oil.

Now it doesn't fully retract. Any ideas before I just go tearing into it?

Pass side is 100% functional and can be used as a reference if needed.

Thanks

Here's what you need to do:

1. Stop forcing it.

2. Remove the vacuum reservoir canister on the driver side behind the headlight. Note: There are two bolts on the brackets under the hood and one bolt under the car fender that hold the reservoir in place.

3. You will find a vacuum line connection at the reservoir tank, a "T" connection and a connection at the actuator. I will be willing to bet money that one of these connections has come loose or is leaking. If the hose shows any cracking or stiffness, replace it all.

4. If all those connection are OK, follow the vacuum line to the passenger side actuator and look for a leak.

5. If all the connections look good and tight, hook the hose to the actuator and put the other end in your mouth and suck like its a milk shake. You should see the actuator arm moving. If it does not, your actuator needs refurbishing.

It might seem counter intuitive but vacuum is required to lower the light housings. It sucks a little lever out of the way that keeps the headlights up.

What you did when you forced it was move the lever out of the way. Hopefully it wasn't bent or damaged.

[1977 Cutly]

Thanks Otto. It was forced open in an emergency, pass side lights burnt out at night and I needed to drive home. My fault for going for a ride with one up and one down.

I will start with removing the vac can. I have two good working vacuum actuators and arms from my parts car. Hopefully I didn't damage anything I don't have as a spare.

I will try to take pics as I go, so maybe someone else can learn from my mistakes.

Thanks again,

John

[Otto Skorzeny]

Hi Cutly,

Slight correction on the vacuum chamber attaching points:

1. One hex head machine screw on the bracket attached to the side of the radiator support
2. One hex head machine screw attached to the bracket on the fender well - accessed through the wheel well.
3. Two hex head machine screws under the fender in front of the tire that hold a bracket on the bottom of the reservoir. These two aren't readily noticeable because you can't see the bracket. This bottom bracket has a locator pin that fits in a hole for exact placement. It also keeps the reservoir from moving around and thus loosening or disconnecting your vacuum lines.

That's what happened to mine. Someone failed to install the screws in the bottom support, the canister wiggled around and a line popped off the "T" fitting.

If any of your screws are missing, take one of the remaining ones to Lowes. They have exact ones in the Automotive fastener section. All four are the same size and thread pitch.

[1977 Cutly]

Found all four vac can fasteners and removed.

I found the adjustment underneath the car that allowed the light to lower flush with the body.

Now the headlight is floppy when its down. Its not held in place like the other.

One problem solved and another uncovered. It still beats driving plastic.

[1977 Cutly]

It looks like the play in the mechanism is where the set screw holds the linkage tight.
Is that how its supposed to work?
That would 'splain things I think.
When I had to force it to open, the set screw would be the first thing to give, and if its not rusted all to hell its not an easy fix to get to, but otherwise an easy fix.