Toronado.org

Hello, I would like to thank the folks responsible for developing and maintaining this forum. After coveting Toronados for years I will get a 66 tomorrow. It was #5554 off the line. It is in pretty good shape but would appreciate any advice on initial steps to get this car road worthy without messing anything up. I plan to flush all fluids and replace with synthetic where I can. I then plan to convert from points and do new plugs and wires. It has some electrical issues too, lights and radio not working. I am also concerned about the gas tank just because of the age of the car. I am 52 years old in Franklin Tn. with an intermediate skill level and knowledge.

I also own and drive a '66 Toro.

First off, I'd suggest waiting on making any mechanical modifications until you get all the systems up and running to factory specs. It's a lot easier to diagnose problems when you can refer to a factory shop manual than it is trying to guess at the problem due to non-factory parts, e.g. electronic ignition.

As for that change specifically, I'd leave it alone. I've been driving a '56 Cadillac as a daily driver for 15 years and have NEVER had problems with the points. An advantage to points over HEI is that you can almost always finagle them to work when they wear out - at least enough to get down the road. Electronic ignition can quit dead and there's nothing you can do except replace the module.

Anyway, that's for you to decide but I'd wait until everything is working properly.

If you insist on electronic ignition, this company will convert your factory dizzy to a GM HEI system. The underhood appearance will remain stock.

DAVE's small-body HEIs Converts your original points style distributor to HEI system
24 Buffalo Lane
Yerington, Nevada, 89447
775- 722-3294
info@davessmallbodyheis.com
http://www.davessmallbodyheis.com/

Immediately go to ebay and buy a factory service manual like this one. It will prove to be invaluable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-OLDS-Chass ... zP&vxp=mtr

Regarding the fuel tank, I'd install a see-through, inline filter under the hood before it enters the fuel pump. That will give you a good indication on whether or not you need to do anything with the tank.

Thank you love the gas filter idea. Is there a radiator flush that you swear by?

Before Id use any of the caustic flushes, I'd drain everything and run fresh water into the cap with the engine running, heater on, and petcock open.

See what comes out. Do you have reason to believe that it's heavily corroded in there?

Do the above until the water flowing from the petcock runs clear.

Thanks again. I just don't have any history on the car and prefer to err on the side of caution. Priority one for me is to always keep the engine cool as possible.

Do the best you can, of course, but don't overthink the potential problems. The water galleries may be perfectly clean and free of scale and rust. Flush it out and run it and see how it does. If it has the original water pump, I'd go ahead and buy a new one.

The operating temp on my car dropped dramatically when I replaced mine. It wasn't running hot or overheating but when the pump started leaking I bought a new one from Auto Zone. Car runs noticeably cooler, now.

You can run some cleaner through the cooling system with clean water (use distilled or deionized, not tap water). THat will help loosen up crud that can then be flushed out. Run the car around for a while with that in it (wouldn't do that while the weather is very hot).

Welcome to the message board and to Toro ownership.

Otto's and Doc's advice is spot on. Unless the car has not been run for many years and the gas is stale and murky, I would not drop the tank.

Leave the points in it for now. They rarely fail. If you get new points, look for NOS Delco on ebay. I have heard that the modern auto store points are crap.

I'd flush the system with a garden hose and then add 50/50 coolant. I'd also stick with cheaper dino oil instead of the synthetic for a couple of oil changes if the engine has sludge. Once it's cleaned out then maybe go to the synth, but better yet, use something like Lucas Hot Rod oil that has lots of zinc which prevents cam to lifter wear much better than standard oil or synthetics.

If you send me an email I can send you a zip file with the 66 Olds shop manual in PDF format. My email is rachlin@comcast.net.

Good Luck!
Brian

Great advice guys! I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. All the wires are brittle. While removing the air cleaner I broke the temp sending wire and fastener. Is there a place to buy the wiring harness kit for this car?