Toronado.org

I finally figured out how to post a pix at this site.

This is the current state of my 68.

It's been off the road for about a year now. I'm shooting to have it restored, back together and better then ever by the summer of 2013.

Will see how it goes....

Wow, you appear to be doing a full restore on it. Nice! Keep us updated with photos and anecdotes. I have a '69 in the driveway that will go down that road too!

Hey Mike, I'm in deep as you can see.

I sent off the tranny and final drive for a once over and reseal.

The motor was sent to the machine shop for the same treatmeant

I plan to do the disc brake conversion thing as well.

The car body was stripped down to bare steel and is now pretty much in final primer.

A view of the body.

Nice! Can't wait to see how it turns out!

Cleared the border with my duplicate stainless steel brake lines, fuel lines, tranny lines and even a vacuum line.

I took the originals down to Buffalo NY and had the guys from Classic Tube do their thing.

I used these guys before when I did my 67 GP...good guys!

I had nine brake lines, two tranny lines, three gas lines including the fuel pump to carb line as well as the thin vacuum line that runs from the tranny up to the intake.

The main rear brake line was a real bitch to remove. Luckily I already had the rear springs removed (gonna replacing the bushings). I had to remove the left rear mount as well as loosen the front mount. I then had to lift the body off the frame just enough to wiggle the darn line out. All the rivets in the clips securing the lines had to be removed before this point. One of the little devils was on top of the frame for cryin out loud!.

I was fortunate that all the brake lines were in tact from the 69 disc brake set up all the way to the distribution block . The distribution blocks were the exact same for drum and disc, so I can use the lines from the 69 forward of the distribution block and all the lines from the 68 behind the distubtion block.

Only thing is now, is I have to either rebuild my metering valve or find a replacement, as well as find a disc brake adjustment valve that sits on the frame rail just past the distribution block.

My 68 also had an electric fuel pump installed with rubber line hacked in up to the carb. I found an intact fuel pump to carb line and had it copied as well . So I can know install an original style fuel pump and revert this back to original look.

Hey, while you've got those lines out... Could you tell me the lineal feet of each piece of brake line?

I'm going to replace my lines with braided stainless. If it's not too much trouble, If you could check that for me, it would be mu ch easier than crawling under my car with a piece of string to figure out the lengths I need...

Sure, I'll check it out on the weekend.

Hey TF, This is what I came up with for brake line lengths:

1, Rear axel left side, 2'-3" (3/16" tube)

2, Rear axel right side, 4'-7" (3/16")

3, Rear main line after adjustment/balance valve, 8'-9" (1/4")

4, Rear brake line, distribution block to adjustment/balance valve, 1'-9" (1/4")

5, Front line, distribution block to R caliper, 7'-8" (3/16")

6, Front line, distribution block to L caliper, 1'-4" (3/16")

7, Master to distribution block, rear line, 2'-2" (1/4")

8, Master to metering valve, 10" (3/16")

9, Metering valve to distribution block , 1'-5" (3/16")

Hope this is what you were looking for.

Current state of the ole 68.

Anyone ever try and change a front speaker before? Unbelievable complex! It's like the last thing out! Other then the upper dash pad that is!

I was so far into it, that I decided to remove the crumpling insulation that is glued way up high in the upper dash (as well as non-working speaker).

One other thing I noticed is that there is not any paint or primer any where near the seam where the dash panel is welded to the windshield panel. No wonder these cars rust very badly in this area. I will take a pix.