Toronado.org

In California, cars that are built from 1975+ must perform a smog check, so in this case I’m fine. The car doesn’t have an air pump, so that’s not much of a problem. Someone installed a reservoir tank before I bought the car, but I replaced the cap with a non-vented one. I didn’t know that you were...

he couldn't pass it for inspection because there was too much play in the front wheels. In all candor there was way too much play in the fronts. If you yank back and forth on the front wheels, both, there's just a hint of play - it ain't much but you can feel it and hear it. HOW MUCH "play&quo...

1. "New" parts--alternators, starters, etc. are typically Communist Chinese junk. Be very careful when buying "new". 2. There's a bunch of seals, and two adjustments on the steering gear. The adjustment that most folks screw with is the one that's performed AFTER the other one, w...

To my knowledge, NO OEM ever used a non-thermal fan clutch. The non-thermal clutches are strictly an aftermarket "cheapskate" option; for folks who won't spend the money to fix it "right". There's a thousand reasons an engine might overheat at idle. Lack of airflow through the ra...

I have long suspected--without proof--that "somebody" or groups of "somebodies" are disposing of industrial waste by dumping it into the gasoline supply. We the People are forced to run that crap through our catalytic converters in order to save Industry the cost of proper dispos...

I got jacked-up some time ago (another forum, I think) for saying the vapor return plumbing was 1/4". The guy claimed it's 1/4" at the pump, but 5/16 at the tank--or something like that.

Is this somehow different from a typical tapered-stud joint? Penetrating oil will do ZERO good. Those tapered studs are a stretch-fit into the tapered hole; it's air-tight. No liquid is getting in there. Two choices: Put a picklefork between the joint and the "relay rod", smack it until th...

COULD be this. COULD be that. COULD be something else.

CONNECT A SCAN TOOL, look at the data stream. You might even find stored codes which are sometimes helpful.

VERIFY FUEL PRESSURE.

Between those two things, you should have enough clues to track down the problem.

Stuck heat-riser valve? Restricted side on a dual-exhaust system? Either one will force excess exhaust gas through the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold, and BAKE the carburetor. If this is what's happening, your carb and carb gaskets are in danger. There is so much heat in the exhaust cross...

HOW are they going to steal it?

If they're going to drive it away, the ignition switch would be worthwhile.

If they're going to winch it on a flat-bed, the ignition switch is pointless.

Either way, if theft is a genuine concern, you need to be able to track the car after it's been taken.